Can't get enough of Tuscany

L' ISOLA D' ELBA
In July Michael was scheduled to make a little trip down to the Tuscany region as the Army base in Vicenza provides IT support to a small Army base in Livorno, only 5 miles away from Pisa (as in the leaning tower of). It’s about a 3 ½ hour drive from Vicenza to Camp Darby near Pisa in the Tuscany region.

Mike would have to stay in a hotel near the base for a couple nights. I thought it would be a good idea if he had some company on this trip so I suggested we make a long weekend of it. While he was working on Thursday and Friday, I would play tourist and then on the weekend we could explore together. Off we went. The trip only took three hours since Michael drives like a crazy Italian. Mama mia!

While Michael was slaving away at the clinic, I booked a tour to visit the beautiful island of Elba (Isola d’Elba) located about 12 miles off the coast. After a 45 minute ferry ride we reached this small and charming island.

The island is crowded in the summer months with lots of tourists as they swim in the beautiful beaches to escape the intense Italian heat. It was very hot! The ocean reminded me of Hawaii with its clear and multi hued blue colors.

The island is also famous for being the home for the exiled French emperor Napoleon I. Arriving in 1813 he stayed less than a year but was able to implement some reforms to improve the quality of life on the island. After an island tour that included Naopleon’s summer home followed by a long Italian lunch we boarded the ferry back to mainland Italy.

THE LEANING TOWER OF PISA

Friday night after Michael was done with work, I picked him up from the base and we drove to one of the most famous cities in Italy; Pisa.

We went directly to the Campo dei Miracoli (the Field of Miracles) in the center of the town where the tower is part of four great religious edifices in a square that has paved walkways and large grassy areas. The Leaning Tower, the bell tower, is surrounded by a large cathedral, a Bapistry(another place for worship) and the Campostano (building that houses tombs).

The tower is 183 feet tall with eight floors. It took over 177 years to complete the construction as there were several delays due to many wars. The tower leans because it was built on unsuitable ground for such a heavy and tall building. It is only about 6 feet above sea level and built on a riverbed. The underlying ground is made up of layers of sand and clay. The layers are not even and the weight of the building has compressed them. Because the layers are not even, as the ground has compressed, it has sunk more in some places than others.

Over the years there have been several attempts to correct the problem as the tower’s leaning continued to slowly increase. A British engineer finally came up with a solution to the problem. At the beginning of June 2001, the work was complete, and the tower had been straightened up by about 16 inches, which returns it to the position it held in 1838. The engineers believe that it is safe for at least another 300 years.

So, if they know how, why didn't they just straighten it up all the way? The answer lies in the tower's name. It is the Leaning Tower of Pisa and just wouldn't be the same if it didn't lean! Some of the residents of Pisa say it would be better to let it fall down, rather than to straighten it all the way.

It was a real kick to see this famous landmark in person. I would recommend a quick stop to see the tower if you are in the area and don’t forget to take your cheesy photo displaying your heroic efforts to keep it from toppling over.

SIENA

Saturday we navigated through the Tuscan countryside that is decorated with clay hills, isolated farms and villas, Romanesque churches, yellow fields of sunflowers and winding roads flanked with the famous tall Cyprus trees to arrive at our destination, Siena.

Located 45 minutes south of Florence in the center of the Tuscan Region, this medieval city offers the history, art and culture of the more popular city of Florence but without the oppressive congestion of tourists and impossible traffic.

You must wear very comfortable shoes since all the narrow roads lead steeply up hill and you will eventually find yourself at the main central square, Pallazzo Pubblico.

The Piazzo Pubblico with the magnificent Torre del Mangia. This building with Gothic architecture was once a chapel and housed the ancient ruling Sienese leaders is now a museum as well as the municipal headquarters for the people of Siena.

We only sampled some of the city’s many offerings that included some delicious gelato as we knew we would return.

VOLTERRA

Now a little something special for Twilight Fans.

One of the highlights of our weekend adventures in Tuscany was our visit to Volterra. We had both read the highly popluar Twilight series and saw the first movie, Twilight. We were in the area so we definitely had to stop.

If you're a Twilight Saga fan, you know that the New Moon movie premiered November 20th. In the New Moon story, the Volturi vampire clan make their home in Volterra, Italy, and Bella and Edward end up there near the end of the book.

Long overshadowed by its more touristy Tuscan neighbor, San Gimignano, Volterra is capitalizing on the interest. The tourism office has created a themed map of the city, encouraged fan meet-ups, and this spring introduced a New Moon weekend package that includes a walking tour called "Hot on the Trail of Edward and Bella," Twilight merchandise and even a dramatic re-enactment of one of the book's scenes.

Now the real Twilight groupies will know that New Moon did not film the scenes in Volterra but instead chose another Italian town nearby called, Montepulciano. Neither has the fountain in the town square that Bella runs through in the book but with movie magic they just created one.

We got our Twilight – New Moon re-enactment map from the tourist office and retraced their steps from the book. It was uncanny that we were there at noon – the exact time when Bella runs to Edward through the square. With video camera in hand we filmed our tour and later produced our own video. So click on the following clip and enjoy “Bella and Edward” in Volterra.


Ciao!

Fiaccolata 2009

About 2 hours away from us, just north of Verona, is the small, italian town of Solferino, where, on June 24, 1859, there occurred the Battle of Solferino. In the aftermath of that bloody engagement, over 38,000 soldiers lay dying and dead on the battlefield with no one making any effort to offer them aid and comfort. A Swiss businessman, named Henri Dunant, witnessed the atrocity, and was so shocked that he immediately began enlisting the help of the women and girls of Solferino to care for the soldiers. He spent his own money buying supplies and erecting make-shift hospitals. He encouraged his helpers to assist all of the soldiers regardless of their side in the conflict saying, "Tutti Fratelli" (All are brothers). On his return to Geneva, he wrote a book and started an organization dedicated to the neutral assistance of humanity, the International Committee of the Red Cross. And every year, Red Cross and Red Crescent society members from all over the world, converge on Solferino to commemorate this event. The commemoration lasts for a week and finishes with the Fiaccolata candlelight walk through Solferino. This year was the 150th Anniversery of the event, and since I happen know the June 2009 Vicenza Red Cross Volunteer of the Month, you know that we just had to go to this.


We met about 10 RC volunteers and workers at the base early on the morning on June 27, piled into a van, and headed off to Solferino. We found our way to the parking area and our leader checked us in at the welcome pavilion. I was totally blown away by the number of people there. They were from all over the world. There were a lot of Italians and just as many Germans, but all of the countries were respresented, hong kong, bangladesh, finland, sweden, costa rica, and on and on... Some of them had arrived up to week earlier and were living in a large tent city that the event organizers had created for them. There were displays and exhibits, and throngs and throngs of people; all of them there because of their committment to the Red Cross.

We stood in line at the back of flat bed truck to pick up our candles for the walk, then stood in line to see some exhibits, then stood in line to buy some Red Cross t-shirts. Apparently you can't have enough t-shirts because it's tradition to trade shirts with other walkers from around the world. We then hiked up the hill to the main Piazza of Solferino. We had reservations at a nice restaurant there, and the walk would begin from that Piazza. We were really excited to be there and to be able to participate in this amazing event. Cynthia was concerned because no one could give her a map of the course, and she always feels more comfortable with a map. We were told it's about a 5K (3 mile) walk and it would be amazing. Cyn and I aren't big time 'walkers', but how hard could a few miles be?

After we finished our pizzas, we joined the massive crowd in the piazza and listened to the pre-walk speeches and music. We started trading t-shirts and taking pictures with every one we saw. Then a little before dusk they give the signal and we all lit our giant 2 foot long candles and began our march. The excitment was a palpable buzz across the piazza and down the hill into Solferino. The locals came out on to their porches and balconies to wave and cheer us on. It was really cool...


And so we marched on... and on... and on... Out of the town of Solferino, and thru cornfields, and up hills, and down hills, and on, and on... And then the complaining started. We were mentally and physically prepared for 3 miles, maybe 5 miles, but as the sun set and the long trail of candle lights stretched out both in front of and behind us, we became more and more certain that we were in trouble. And the worst part was that no one could tell us anything; how much farther, how much longer, was there an easier way, nothing... My feet complained. My wife complained. The complaining intensified. I found myself in the role of cheerleader and slave driver pushing both of us ever onward. At one point, as we re-entered the city of Solferino, we thought we might be near the end. However as we turned a sharp corner in the road, we were greeted by a long steep hill back up to the Piazza where we started. Getting her up that hill took a force of will on both our parts, but I just kept saying that this hill was the end of the walk. We would be back at the Piazza where we started from, right? Well we ended up at the Piazza alright, but the winding, fiery snake of people didn't stop at the Piazza. Instead they just kept plodding on down another road. The complaints reached a new level.


At one point we stopped at an ambulance parked by the side of the road (Note: when you go to a red cross event, you can always count on good first aid stations), and asked them how much longer the course might be. They had no idea! That sent the redhead through the roof! She didn't have a map, she didn't know how long the walk was, and not even the event staff could help her! I offered the option of leaving her there, and I would ask our driver to come back after the walk was over, but who knew how long that would be. Like a a grouchy, little trooper, she marshalled on.


All in all, we hiked for over 13.3 kilometers (over 8 miles) through, around, and over Solferino. At one point we met up with some American Red Cross volunteers that had flown in from military bases in Japan. That helped to lift our spirts, since we had long ago lost track of the people we came with. All said and done, we marched for over 3 hours and finally ended up at the tent city were we had checked in for the event. Our bones were weary and feet blistered, but as the fireworks went off celebrating the end of the Fiaccolata, I couldn't help but feel proud of our participation in this incredible event.

The 13.3 km course that we walked

What Cyn thought of the walk...

The Official Symbols of the Red Cross, Red Crystal, and Red Crescent

Italian Alpini

Austrian Rotes Kreuz

Bangladesh Red Crescent

The Asian Invasion!

SOLFERINO: Here was born the idea for the Red Cross

More Pictures Here