Tuesday, October 21, 2008

La Transumanza - When the Cows Come Home!

Ever hear of the term "doing something until the cows come home". I always thought it was a weird one. Where were those pesky cows, and exactly when would they be getting back?? Well on a cold day in September in the little town of Poianella, all of my questions were answered...




Poianella is a small town about 10 minutes drive southeast from our place in Montecchio Precalcino, and is the home of our good friends, Ann and Roland. The story of the cows is something like this: The ranching and dairy industry still follows the seasonal customs of taking their herds to the mountains and high plains north of Asiago during the warm summer months. Then as the cooler weather of autumn settles in, they march the herds back down from the highlands to warmer pastures. The trek is over 70 kilometers (some 42 miles) and is accomplished in just a few days. Considering the maniacal driving habits on most Italian streets, the process sounds like a recipe for disaster, but somehow the Italian cowboys manage to pull it off every year. After our friends shared this tale, we just had to check this thing out. So on a rather cold September weekend, just one day before my birthday, we piled in our little Blue Bunny, and headed over to Ann and Roland's.

It was about three in the afternoon and already there were throngs of people lining the roads around Poianella. We tried to make a left on to the street that would take us directly to Ann's door, but a police officer with a yellow warning baton directed us in another direction. Luckily we found some parking at the local church, and we started the 5 minute stroll up the road to Ann's house. The excitement was palpable as dozens of small groups assembled around garages and driveways along the route. We met Ann and her sister, Kay, halfway to the house, and within minutes were back at their place pouring ourselves glasses of prosecco, our favorite white wine.



We knew that getting to see a bunch of cows being herded right outside our friends door was going to be cool, but we had no idea how big the parade was going to be that preceded the event. First came the parade of cars starting with my personal favorite, the Ferraris. There were over 15 of them in the bunch: all red, shiny and purring with that signature Italian-engineered machinery under the hood. Then dozens of other cars, Minis, Lancias, Fiats. It was quite a show from the classic roadsters to the newest racers. That was followed with a parade of tractors, both modern and ancient. Then Vespa scooters, a marching band, cultural groups, and the Mayor.









This old timer was checking text messages on his cell!








Luigina tries to get a little luck for the returning cows!

Then after a long, agonizing pause in the processional, a truck bearing a sign that read, "Arriva La Transumanza" rolled into view. Then came the cows, and the cows, and still more cows!! Dairy heifers with their enormous, pendulous udders; Juicy looking cows that were going to be dinner; and spotted cows that would make a great Naugahyde couch! And all around the meandering beasts were the cowboys wearing leather and denim and looking right out of a western. Boy, it was great!! I got right down on the street in front of Ann's house to take some pictures. Right in the middle of the clanging cacophony of their huge cowbells. I was close enough to touch 'em. In fact, that's when the hilarity happened.









Right next to Ann and Roland's house is a large empty lot. Several of the herd decided that they needed a break from their Bataan death march, detoured into the grassy lot, and started leisurely munching on the sweet, green grasses and weeds that were found there. Well the cowboys weren't going to allow this disorderly conduct on their parade, and a few of them quickly separated themselves from the processional and moved in with their dogs to round up the wayward bovine. I also quickly moved to the corner of Ann's yard to get a better view of the action.

A few cattle take a detour



The cowboys quickly encircled the delinquent heifers and started pushing them back to the road and on with the march. The obedient beasts soon fell in line and started taking the quickest route back to the road, and the only thing standing in their way was... ME!!
Now I wasn't just standing so close I could touch them, I had to touch them in an effort to keep them from running me over!! It was scary and hilarious all at the same time!!








Cyn and the crew watch my plight from a safe position...



Future couch in a trendy night club.

After all of that fun, Ann and Roland's landlords, Mariano and Luigina, invited us over for a real Italian meal. We had lasagna with homemade noodles and pot roast and cooked veggies. Luigina kept bringing out more food and even though she only spoke Italian, we understood perfectly that she wanted us to eat, Eat, EAT!!! And even the food wasn't enough. When Ann tried to pour herself a glass of water, Luigina protested, "Anna!! No aqua, VINO!!". They were very gracious to Cyn and me especially when they learned it was my birthday the next day. It was so great to feel like part of a family, and it really made me miss my family back home.

Where else in the world can you do something like this!?!

Ciao for now,
M


Mike gets a little birthday love!

4 comments:

RRUGGIO said...

I love it! Couple of thoughts -

1. The video was hilarious with all the noise and Mike the conquistador in the streets.

2. I was think of starting a drinking game with all the fancy descriptive words you two use to describe the adventures. That way by the time I finish reading about the wine tours, I'm in the same level of spirits intake you were ;-).

Cheers and Aloha,

Bob, Jen and Little G's

Anonymous said...

I finally got to see this piece of video and laughed out loud...classic. Love all the adventure stories and pics- makes me feel like I'm experiencing it with you.

Love and miss you both-
Claire

Anonymous said...

Rebecca says
Okay I didn't look at the sight yesterday like I said I would...but I did this morning!!!!!
We will be there next year for this event! for sure.
now you know what your cousin Mike and Marcal do for a living,since they are cowboys. I loved the video. What a brave man Michael is helping the cows out...showing them the way to go. Cynthia were you the one that was telling him to jump the fence? Great job on the blog. Rebecca

Anonymous said...

I'm behind on checking out the blog, but this has to be one of my all-time favorites. I especially loved the video...hilarious.

I think Bob is on to something...I could do a whole drinking game for all the words you came up with to describe the cows...Did you have a cow thesaurus next to you?? Heifer, bovine, beasts of burden?? Nice!

Love, Lani Moo aka: Natis